welcome back!

Good evening and hello again!

Contrary to popular belief and after more than a year and half of absence, the wanderjahre has recommenced and can no longer be classified as brief. I'm back in Italy, this time in Emilia-Romagna (and Ravenna in particular), for what appears to be a much longer period of time. Having finished my studies at Arizona State University on as successful a note as possible, I took a few months to return to Saint Louis and contemplate my future, whatever that means. To be completely honest, in a modern context that basically serves as a euphemism for laziness and an optimistically worded aversion to entering that dreaded and (usually) unavoidable byproduct of maturity that some term the 'real world'. So, after engaging in several months of the aforementioned soul-searching and career designation, it dawned on me that if I had any hopes of entering upper academia, at least in the United States, I was now relegated to waiting for the upcoming (2012) fall semester. Needless to say, sitting idly and passing time in a torpid and banal manner just wasn't cutting it and at the behest of my Italian professor from ASU (for which and to whom I am eternally grateful), I began the process of applying to graduate school in Italy at the revered University of Bologna.

Based on my insatiable appetite for art and it's underlying history, and also based on the fact that a degree in US history really wouldn't serve anything in this particular context, I chose a 2-year Laurea Magistrale in Art History and Conservation. After myriad and at times enervating bureaucratic roadblocks, I managed to secure a place pending an oral examination of my Italian proficiency. The rest, as of right now, is a bit of trite history unfortunately unworthy of recounting in this venue. I made it, no thanks to the Italian government and disorganized public service systems, and am currently in my third week of classes. More on those later, perhaps.

I'm based here in Ravenna, a relatively small city placed conveniently on the eastern coast of the country and renowned as Dante's final resting place. Were it not for some great UNESCO protected mosaics, that might be just about all this city has going for it. Nah, in all seriousness, the city is gorgeous and truly antique...both in the far-reaching and thoroughly impressive history and the mindset of the local people. I have my issues with the language but can speak relatively fluently, usually without error, although because I have been speaking (American) English for 23 years I am blessed/cursed with a unshakable accent and it is immediately apparent that I'm a foreigner. While some claim that Italians love Americans, the Ravennati, as they're known, don't really care too much for my presence here. That's all well and good, I didn't exactly come here to seek approval but it does make for an...interesting time when one attempts to make conversation at a bar or local place of business. Too much history might in fact be a bad thing, but I'm content with my choice and have my hands too full with obtaining a graduate degree entirely in another language to stop and worry about such trivial matters. I wouldn't mind an explanation regarding the frigid response I seem to encounter more often than not, but Umberto Eco wrote (in a rather literal translation) that "The only truth is to learn to liberate ourselves from the insane passion for the truth." Alla prossima,

EPK

Updates & a Comment or Two on Italian Wine

Buona Sera,

Regardless of it being after one in the morning here, I feel the need to update my blog for the first time in what seems like weeks. Dealing with the novelties of a new country and culture can at times be infuriating and has definitely distracted me from updating you guys on my progress. Once you come to Italy, specifically Florence, you will see what I mean when I say that the people here have no qualms about speaking their mind. Offending each other comes naturally to the Florentine people, and I have had to learn to develop a much thicker skin. Insults are a thing of beauty, apparently, and I find myself with quite a lot to learn in that department. When somebody cuts another driver off (and the roads here...no words can quite describe how pericoloso, or dangerous, everything is), it is second nature to come up with some nasty quip to offend not just the driver, but their ancestors and the whole family. I find myself in awe at the overall lack of propriety of the people in this city, though once you get used to it I guess it can be a bit humorous...except when it is directed your way. At that point, it's on you to either find it amusing or let somebody have the upper hand when it comes to control.

The food in this region completely makes up for anything I have had to deal with, insults or otherwise. Forget preservatives and butter, the traditional Tuscan dishes are cooked with high quality olive oil and only the freshest of ingredients. I have fallen in love with foccacia Genovese con formaggio, or an Italian form of thin cheese bread. With some good Extra Virgin Olive Oil, fresh ground pepper and a bit of salt, it makes the perfect snack. Also delicious are the many different forms of cioccolatini and the pastries here...wow. It would be very easy to spend the day eating different Tuscan dishes, to be honest, and there are many a good pasticceria overlooking several of the major monuments which makes sightseeing a true delight.

Speaking of the major monuments, I was able to finally go inside Santa Croce for the first time last Thursday. Unfortunately, Giotto's terrific frescoes depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi in the Bardi chapel to the right of altar are blocked off by scaffolding, as well as Cimabue's beautiful Crucifix. The original Crucifix was very heavily damaged in the flood of 1966, when over 15 feet of water supposedly crashed through the front doors and damaged a large number of pieces within the building, and is visible in a museum off to the side. In fact, most of the massive church seemed to be under some kind of restoration or construction. We were only able to see Michelangelo's tomb, constructed by Vasari, from afar, though many of the other tombs within the building are at least partially accessible. Dante's cenotaph is one of the more interesting, since there is still an ongoing debate over whether or not his ashes ever actually made it to the city. He was only pardoned for his sin within the last century, despite having died in 1321, and his remains were hidden inside a false wall in a monastery in Ravenna. When you take a look around, the first thing that might catch your attention is the large number of half destroyed, or whitewashed, frescoes that only partially adorn the walls. We have Giorgio Vasari and his 'great' mind to thank for this, as he believed many of these decorations detracted from the Franciscan message of the building. Oh Vasari, how wrong you were. While the lack of side aisle wall decoration does draw your attention towards the massive altar, it is a travesty nonetheless to destroy beautiful works of art, no matter what your intention. For example, the Protestant Reformation of the 16th century led to a widespread iconoclasm that in turn resulted in the destruction of countless altarpieces and other works of art that once adorned religious buildings. Andreas Karlstadt may have thought he was doing the right thing but I like to think that even Martin Luther himself would have found his penchant for destruction abominable.

Anyway, enough about Iconoclasm and the disappointing lack of access afforded visitors of Santa Croce. I was informed that most of the work being conducted was in anticipation of the tourist season, which enters full swing in a few months. Regardless, it was very upsetting not to be able to visit many of the things I had read about or studied in depth. Onto a happier subject: Italian wine. I must confess that when I came to this country, I was not the biggest fan of red wine. In fact, I found it difficult to consume even a single glass and much preferred white wine for the taste and lack of resulting headache. After spending the past month sampling various red wines, I can confidently say that I have been converted. I now prefer to enjoy a glass of a good Chianti or really anything with Sangiovese grapes. The more organic the grape, the better. Most of the wines from the region of Tuscany are incredibly tasty, and you really would be hard pressed to go wrong with any selection. The prices are incredible as well, and I find myself limiting myself to no more than 1.5 bottles a week for fear of becoming a wino. For a delicious Chianti Classico, a personal favorite, you do not have to spend more than 15 euros. Incredible. Well, it's not almost 2 am here and I honestly could write about the wine and cuisine of this country, specifically this region, for another several posts. More to come later and I promise updates will be more frequent from now on. Pisa this Friday, Amsterdam and the Netherlands the week after that, and Athens the week after that for my spring break. Get like me,

E

Updates from Firenze and the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo

Ciao,

Buon Giorno and greetings from Firenze. It may be cold as all get out here but that hasn't stopped me from walking around and exploring whenever possible. It even snowed the other day, something I was not expecting at all, but it was nice to see that the United States isn't the only place getting blanketed. The snow was freezing cold and it rained as well, though after reading about the "Snowmageddon" I am afraid I can't really complain at all. Despite it being almost the middle of February, we are apparently still stuck in winter here and will be for quite a few weeks to come. Definitely didn't pack as well as I could have, but I'm getting by without getting sick therefore all is well.

Enough about the weather though, let's talk about some art! I am very fortunate to have an ideal class schedule that gives me both Monday and Friday off every week, therefore I am using those days to explore and soon to begin travelling. I have plans to visit Holland the weekend after next, as Pisa is on the list for next Friday, and hopefully discover some of the 17th century Dutch art I adore so much. Peter Paul Rubens' art is distributed across the world, along with that of Rembrandt von Rijn so I am not as concerned with seeking these pieces out as I am about the peasant imagery I studied and wrote a research paper about. I was lucky enough to view a Tavern scene by David Teniers the Younger, one of the artists I discussed, in the Galleria Borghese but I would really like to see some of Adriaen Brouwer or Adriaen van Ostade works in person. The work of these two artists fascinates me, and I can only imagine the reaction and up close and personal viewing would induce. Also very high on my list of places to visit before May is the Kunstistoriches Museum in Vienna, where 1/4 of Pieter Brueghel the Elder's works are housed. He set the standard for the personal, revealing images of the lower classes (he even dressed up as a peasant and attended their weddings and and paved the way for some of the aforementioned artists. His Tower of Babel and cycle depicting the various seasons of the year would be enough for me, but there are more and I doubt I'd leave that room for a good couple hours. But, I'm getting ahead of myself. Back to Florence and the present.

One of the true treats of this city lies not in the Duomo (though that is absolutely magnificent), but in the museum dedicated to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Saint Mary of the Flower) and the building of Brunelleschi's almost overwhelming masterpiece, the Museum dell'Opera del Duomo. Inside this treasure chest are several breathtaking statues by Donatello, including the simply stunning (I have no better words...rendered speechless, literally) Magdalena, the original gilded bronze east door to the Battistero by Ghiberti, Michelangelo's final Pieta intended for his tomb, and many others. As for all the other museums (except the Museo di Carlo Bilotti in Rome...the collection is simply not big enough!) I have visited during my time in Italy, I reserved a chunk of no less than two hours for exploring and staring. Honestly, that probably was not enough time and I could have wandered for hours more among the three floors. That is one thing that never ceases to amaze me about this country: there is no lack of artistic treasures and nowhere near enough time to see them all. I always find myself spending more time than I expect (not that that's a problem!) and in awe at what I find hidden away in some dark, underlit room.

Besides the teriffic sculptures by Donatello and the panel by Ghiberti, there were also a ton of other things to see and gape at. Andrea Pisano's reliefs for Giotto's belltower were magnificent, though the one that immediately caught my attention was his Allegory of Geometry. Having studied Albrecht Durer (note to Professor Connor: I cannot figure out how to accent the u, so his name will be incorrect only due to blogger.com's lack of accents) and his print 'Melancolia' from 1514, I was eager to compare the two. While Durer's work is a print and Pisano's is a carved relief, the two are still radically different. The only real similiarity, to be honest, between the two is the depiction of a woman. Obviously, the two are of different subjects (Durer's being a comment on the philosophy of Heinrich von Nettesheim about the varying degrees of melancholy and Pisano's a display of a scientific/technical endeavor intended for the lower facade of the Campanile facing the Battistero) though the portrayal of the Allegory of Geometry by each artist are almost opposites. Attached to this post is an image of Pisano's Geometry now housed in the Museum along with Donatello's Magdalena.

This post has already gone on longer than I planned, but I think everybody who reads this can see that once I get started talking about these teriffic pieces of art, I simply can't stop. If you come to Florence, you MUST visit this museum. If only to see how Brunelleschi and his workers constructed the Duomo, (for the remnants of the equipment that they used are on exhibit in the lower level), do it. One final thing: the gelaterie and pasticcerie (gelato and pastry shops, respectively) in this country are marvelous. Ice cream in the States is good, but here everything is fresh and beyond delicious. Keep an eye out for Perche No? near OrSanmichele in Florence and Gelato di San Crispino in Rome, as these are my two favorites so far. As long as the gelato is stored in stainless steel containers and the banana is greyish, you are good to go (if you spot plastic cartons or yellow banana, you are eating products of mass consumption and odds are, the taste won't be as good or anywhere near as fresh. Just a few tips) Til my next post,

EK

More about Rome

Mannn that eternal city is something...I don't think I could live there for an extended time though, after staying for just three days. The city is nuts, and there is a whole hell of a lot going on there. Traffic makes you want to either pull your hair out or simply exit the taxi and start walking, the people can be outrageously rude, and if you are not on your wares, your belongings will be gone before you can stop and take a picture. I was all about my possessions, locking my bags to the bed when I left my hostel and taking many precautions with my passport and wallet. I invested in a few touristy items, like a money belt and a lanyard contraption for my important documents and was very glad I did so. When there is nothing to steal, it makes the target on your back a lot smaller. Walking down the street, I observed people sizing me up and I'm almost positive the fact that there wasn't really anything in my pockets made it a lot less likely I'd be followed/attacked. For anybody planning a visit to Rome or any other touristy area in Italy, know what you are getting into and plan accordingly.

On a much lighter note, the Musei Capitolini nestled in Michelangelo's Piazza del Campidoglio are far beyond worth the minimal cost for entry and I highly recommend a visit to these expansive collections. There are so many different pieces of art and other fascinating bits and pieces of history that one building simply isn't enough!! If that doesn't stress how gigantic this place is, I really don't know what will. They have everything: from a 20+ room Pinacoteca to an underground collection of funeral slabs and even part of the massive Temple of Jupiter that rested on the Capitoline Hill in ancient Rome. I had a brief lapse in functioning and forgot to bring a memory card for my digital camera with me to the museum, therefore I was only able to capture a few pictures. Of course, I had to save room for at least one Carvaggio (the Pinacoteca contains two, including the striking and almost bizarre image of a young Saint John the Baptist, currently undergoing restoration) and the imposing equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. They also had a hall dedicated to an artist I studied rather extensively in my Italian Baroque class, Pietro da Cortona. Several of his beautiful landscapes are on display, in addition to his dynamic and altogether massive Rape of the Sabines. Add a few Guercino canvasses, some Ludovico Caracci, and a lot of Guido Reni and there is enough to look at for days. I actually plan on going back to the museum when I revisit Rome later in the semester, therefore I can spend all the time this collection necessitates. Unfortunately I had to return back to my hostel and pack up my belongings for my trip to Florence, thus I had to leave a bit before I wanted to. Rest assured that will not be the case on my next visit. One thing I regret not being able to see is the Palazzo Farnese (now the French Embassy), as reservations for the museum have to be made at least three months in advance. I could go on and on about the museum and the city, but I'll leave it at that for now. Pictures should be attached and probably more to come later, I just can't help myself,

E

Anybody and Everybody,

I'm in Florence! It took quite the ordeal to get here and get settled, but I have had all of my classes for the first week, moved in to my apartment, got internet, and a (much cheaper) international cell phone. If anybody wants to call me on that number, from the United States, you have to dial 001 39 335 714 6356. My classes seem like they will be a good deal of work, though having each one only once a week gives me plenty of time to complete any and all homework. I just hope I won't be distracted by the city! I had my first chance to walk around today, and it is simply stunning here. The architecture spans centuries, and it seems there is a bit of history at every turn. A good deal of the roads here are even named after famous artists! Being an art history minor, that definitely makes it a good deal easier to get around...just think, all i have to do to get home is take Via Cimabue to Via Fra Giovanni Angelico! The only thing I could possibly complain about is the weather, as it is very damp and cold here. Nonetheless, I am making a concerted effort to enjoy every minute that I am in this beautiful city. With the incredible Florentine food and culture, it's very hard not too. Italian food in America is, without being offensive, a joke compared to food here. Not only does the food here contain no perservatives, but the cooks also prepare most (if not all) dishes with very high quality olive oil instead of butter, which makes everything a good deal healthier. The nutjob coordinator of the program, Dr. Francesco Convertini, was born and raised a Florentine and while having 800 things to say about everything else, he contends that eating and living here will make me lose weight! Not that I am overweight, but it seems highly unlikely that eating a good deal more food(each full meal here should consist of AT LEAST three large courses) at every meal, however healthy, will encourage weight loss. Perservatives or not, I just don't see that happening. Regardless, everything is so tasty and I guess healthier, so I'm just going to keep walking and eating and see what happens.

My stay in Rome, although brief, was incredible. The three-day trip was beset by horrible weather, and it rained almost every day. Nonetheless, I bundled up and managed to make my way through some of the more impressive museums I have ever been in. The Villa Borghese itself is soemthing to behold in the day, though the collection of art is just to-die-for. They limit tours to two hours, which seems a bit short considering the enormous size of the collection, though I definitely extended my stay for at least a half hour past the limit. There are several Bernini sculptures, including the masterful Rape of Proserpine, where the fingers of Pluto are clearly indenting the skin of the young Goddess and basis for springtime. This, along with his almost miniature version of David, are incredibly striking and most definitely require 360 degree viewing to fully appreciate Scipione Borghese's favorite artist's skill. In addition to these wonderful sculptures, the collection also contains no less than five paintings by my personal favorite artist, Caravaggio, all housed in one beautifully decorated room. The sick Bacchus, an almost disturbing representation of the Roman god of wine, along with the slightly homo-erotic Boy with a Basket of Fruit are striking in their attention to detail and provide terrific examples of Caravaggio's masterful depiction of fruit and leaves. Everything is shown, down to the veins on the leaves and the purplish tinge of Bacchus' lips. Also in the room were David with the head of Goliath (believed to be a self-portrait), an image of an old, frail Saint Jerome as well as the Madonna dei Palafrenieri, which was reportedly refused by the patrons due to the almost crude realism used by the artist in his portrayal of very holy characters. I must have spent close to thirty minutes in this room, and had to remind myself of the other treasures waiting for me in order to simply leave. More to come about Rome in the next entry, along with the few pictures I did manage to take.

my long but sure-to-be fun adventure has to start somewhere...

Hello anybody and everybody,

As I write this, some 68 minutes before the first flight of my journey, I can't help but feel a myriad of emotions about my impending departure and the next four months abroad. While I have travelled outside the United States to faraway Israel and the Middle East, my gut keeps telling me I am facing a different animal entirely. The trip to Israel began and ended with the company of a friend I have known for most of my life, therefore a good deal of the stress I dealt with while preparing my belongings last night was not present in the summer of 2006. I must confess that I am actually much more excited to visit and explore Italy and Europe than I was to roam around the land of my ancestors. Perhaps my lack of strong religious conviction is to blame, but I have been chomping at the bit to visit the Borghese gallery and museum while I remember exhibiting a significantly lower level of excitement about descending on the Negev desert. Don't get me wrong: I absolutely loved climbing both up and down Masadah, floating in the Dead Sea, and riding camels with Bedouins. The (almost) two weeks I spent in Israel were some of the most adventurous, fun-filled days of my life, and I wouldn't trade that experience for the world. Nonetheless, I have been studying the history surrounding Rome along with France and the Netherlands for a while, and have fallen head over heels for the art of those areas in the past several years. Thus, as you can imagine, a trip to Europe for 1/3 of the year aroused quite a deal more interest than the ten day birthright adventure. I had fun in Israel and saw some amazing things, but I believe what lies in wait for me across the globe will blow that out of the water.

I will miss my family, dogs included, a great deal and my friends as well while overseas for the next several months. I hope I will get some visitors during my time in Italy, and have been promised as much by both my mother and sister. My grandma, aunt and cousin have also expressed interest at making the trip to Europe, therfore I am sure that my time abroad will not be spent entirely by myself. Still I am sad to say goodbye, if only for 8 weeks, and cannot wait to enjoy good times with my family again. Its a good thing I have such great art and countryside to keep me occupied in the meantime, and I hope to soon be distracted by the beauty of Caravaggio's canvases and the energy and emotion of Bernini's marble masterpieces. Rome is the first stop on my journey to Florence and beyond, and I plan on staying from tomorrow until Sunday. There is a lot to see, and I only hope I have the time and ware with all (sp?) to take in a good portion of the city's treasures. No matter what happens though, in the very least, I will make it if I have to crawl to the Contarelli chapel in the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi. Caravaggio waits. Hope this finds any readers well and that I have any readers, period, and that I make it to London in one piece.